In the studio with Karen Willis Holmes
“I am a huge believer in trying things first, and if it does not work, so be it. I would hate to pass up an amazing opportunity simply because I was fearful. The harder the challenge, the greater the reward.”
How did your journey begin with KWH, and what are some of the pivotal moments in the brands growth across time?
Perth is where my fashion journey began. That’s where I studied fashion design and started making made-to-measure pieces from my home. I then moved back to the UK and based myself in London to gain more experience in the fashion industry. Eventually, I moved back to Perth to open my first store, selling my designs. I worked on special occasion fashion and had people asking me to make their wedding gowns which I slowly started to focus on.
I relocated to Sydney in 2000 to open a couture bridal store in East Sydney and my journey in the bridal world has grown from there.
The most terrifying time for me was when I first opened my first ready-to-wear store in Sydney. I questioned whether or not brides felt comfortable with my sewing and couture abilities and whether they even liked my designs. Thankfully and to my immense relief, it turns out they do.
Another pivotal moment in my KWH journey was opening a store in New York – that was a big deal. It was not easy starting a business in another country… there was so much to learn and so much to do. I remember how I kept waking up in the middle of the night, panicking that I made a mistake; however, our NYC boutique continues to flourish.
I am a huge believer in trying things first, and if it does not work, so be it. I would hate to pass up an amazing opportunity simply because I was fearful. The harder the challenge, the greater the reward.
“The KWH bride is not afraid to express her individuality; she appreciates detailing, values the skills of our dressmakers and expresses her style with confidence and poise. ”
“Our gowns are renowned for their classic silhouettes that complement every figure, but what sets them apart is our exquisite fabrics – whether it is the intricate beading, innovative fabrics or our signature laces that feature a twist. Our style is classic, timeless pieces with a twist, and we are starting to introduce hints of Boho into the mix. ”
KWH runs multiple collections, boutiques and stockists across not only Australia but the world, yet there is only one Karen! How do you divide your time and what is your role in the business?
I am a recovering workaholic and trying to delegate more tasks to others. I love what I do and have dedicated my whole life to the KWH brand and business. For the past year, I have been working more on expanding the business, creating more masterpiece gowns and working out where to go and how to improve. KWH and I would not be where we are if it was not for the help of my strong and supportive team.
I believe that being successful in business is a marathon, not a sprint. You have been a huge inspiration to me in the way you have driven KWH to be successful spanning decades not seasons, how do you do this?Thank you for the compliment, this is exactly how I like to think of myself – a business marathon runner. I am resilient and reliable, and just keep moving onwards and upwards. I am in this for the long haul.
I stay true to myself no matter where the market is heading and persevere through the challenging times, remembering them as positive lessons. It is vital to look at the business as a whole and identify what we need to improve so that we can continue growing. I just keep on, keeping on.
“I strongly believe you never stop learning. I am constantly observing – I like to listen and look in my boutiques, watching brides try gowns on, asking questions, receive client feedback. At times, it is difficult to hear the responses, but it ultimately means that I gain priceless feedback to consider for future designs.
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What are your favourite types of fabrics to work with and why?
All types – I like mixing it up. Natural fibres are great to work with and they add a touch of wabi sabi with the beauty of the imperfections. I also love a fabulous man-made fabric with the technical aspects and the beautiful clean lines you can create.
Beaded fabrics add drama and a beautiful glimmer, and really who can go past a wonderful romantic lace? All the main fabric types! I cannot decide – luckily, I have several collections, so I do not need to!
What sort of fabric trends do you see coming in 2020 and beyond2020 will see the beginning of the return of corset bodices – something I am very happy about as I am the corset queen. I love them.
Super clean lines will also be a trend in 2020 and beyond. We are currently working with some beautiful mechanical stretch fabrics – you can achieve a great fit with a bit of flexibility.
Since couples are steering clear from the traditional wedding, alternative looks like a pantsuit, jumpsuit and two pieces will be seen more.
A relaxed wedding gown is still prominent, but hints of the aforementioned trends will be weaved into designs.
“Beaded fabrics add drama and a beautiful glimmer, and really who can go past a wonderful romantic lace?”
What part of your week do you really love sinking your teeth into? Are there any parts of your work that you dread?
My favourite part of the week is ticking off my to-do list! I love every aspect of my work as it varies day to day. I also enjoy problem solving and finding solutions.
Due to the nature of my business and playing multiple roles, it does become difficult trying to keep track of everything and where we are at with each task and that is where my team comes in.
What were the biggest learning curves and what are the greatest on-going challenges of running your label?
I found it challenging to stay true to my aesthetic and adding a hand-crafted touch to the gowns. Years ago, I tried stocking some gowns from an overseas manufacturer because I thought they were great and would work with my other collections, but I hardly sold anything. That was a very expensive lesson in being true to the brand, it taught me a lot.
I strongly believe you never stop learning. I am constantly observing – I like to listen and look in my boutiques, watching brides try gowns on, asking questions, receive client feedback. At times, it is difficult to hear the responses, but it ultimately means that I gain priceless feedback to consider for future designs.
“Note to self: take a step back and say “well done” because even the day-to-day is WOW.”
“Brides, please do not overthink your wedding gown. Try on everything and listen to yourself – what do you like and dislike? What do you feel fabulous and special in? Sometimes it is difficult to articulate these thoughts and convey your emotions in words, but you will find ‘the one’ and only you can make this decision. Listen to others around you and take it in, but do not let them make the final call. At the end of the day, it is your day and it is your dress (yes, even if your parents are paying for it). ”
Can you share with us some of the incredible highlights of your career so far? What has made you really say WOW!?
Like every other person, sometimes you take the day-to-day for granted and do not appreciate what you are creating and achieving.
Note to self: take a step back and say “well done” because even the day-to-day is WOW.
Something that still excites me is that it is my ‘normal’ for me to travel to NYC and London for work. I cannot believe I have a boutique in NYC and across Australia and that brides personally choose to buy one of my gowns to wear on what is considered one of the most special days of their lives. That is a huge honour to me.
For all of the young designers and fashion students reading this and looking up to you, what pointers can you share for them?
The most valuable advice I can give to you is to work hard, keep trying – yes, it is going to get tough sometimes, but anything important is never easy. Stray true to yourself and on-brand for you. What do you want to achieve? Who will your designs appeal to?
Get another job to pay the bills to start off with.
With boutiques across the world, where do you call home, and what really grounds you?
I divide my time between Federal and Sydney as I bought a house in Federal, behind Byron Bay over a year ago and I try to work from here as much as possible. The greenery, the tranquillity, waking up to the wonderful morning chorus of birds singing is simply paradise to me.
What do you do to wind down after a busy week?
The rare occasion I get to wind down, a glass of wine with my husband, and a walk around Byron Bay does the trick for me.
Connect with Karen
Want to find out more about the incredible Karen Willis Holmes?
Follow her on instagram @kwhbridal
Or head to her website karenwillisholmes.com